The Committee
- Takes note that Algeria has nominated The women’s ceremonial costume in the Eastern region of Algeria: knowledge and skills associated with the making and adornment of the ‘Gandoura’ and the ‘Melehfa’ (No. 02139) for inscription on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity:
The Gandoura and Melehfa are traditional attires worn by women in Eastern Algeria for festive occasions such as weddings, ceremonies, and national and religious festivities. The Gandoura is a long, flared robe made of satin or velvet and embroidered with floral and animal motifs using techniques such as gold thread and beadwork. Accessories include a chain around the waist and conical headgear embroidered with gold thread or embellished with coins, a diadem or a medallion chain. Embroidered jackets or long draping garments can be worn over the robe. The Melehfa is a wide, draping garment that is supported on the shoulders by two silver brooches and at the waist by a long belt made of dyed wool. The excess fabric is folded over the chest and towards the back. It is completed with a turban or scarf adorned with pendants or a diadem. Both outfits are complemented with jewellery such as earrings, chains, necklaces, bracelets and anklets. The knowledge and skills related to crafting and wearing the outfits and accessories are transmitted formally through training centres and private institutions, as well as informally within families.
- Considers that, from the information included in the file, the nomination satisfies the following criteria for inscription on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity:
R.1: The Gandoura and Melehfa are traditional attires worn by women in Eastern Algeria for festive occasions such as weddings, ceremonies, and national and religious festivities. The bearers and practitioners of the element include craftspeople working in workshops or at home, including weavers, seamstresses/seamsters, designers of motifs, ornamentation craftspeople and traditional dressers. The knowledge and skills associated with crafting and adorning these attires are passed down through generations, both informally within families and formally through training centres, associations, and private workshops. The element enhances social ties and a sense of solidarity among individuals wearing similar attires, all based on recognized and shared principles, customs and norms. The attires are worn by women on various ceremonies and ritual occasions.
R.2: The file affirms the communities’ consideration of the element’s contribution to gender equality, inclusive economic development, and peace and social cohesion. The inscription of the element will enhance its visibility nationally and internationally, encouraging its increased usage within and between communities. The element is an identity marker and a tool for integration among communities and social groups. It also promotes sustainable development by creating employment opportunities and generating income while encouraging human creativity through its artistic and aesthetic values.
R.3: The proposed safeguarding measures include providing funding support for workshops and to associations, practitioners and bearers. The tourism and handicraft sector also organizes training programmes for traditional garment-making trades, and government programmes allow practitioners to access zero-interest microcredits. Weavers, embroiderers, tailors, garment workshops and jewellers join associations to improve access to the raw materials needed for their craft, while exhibitions and trade shows increase the element’s visibility and disseminate information. The Chamber of Crafts and Artisanship and the National Fund for the Promotion of Traditional Artisanal Activities also facilitate training and access to the necessary equipment and materials. The community’s role in planning and implementing the safeguarding measures is elaborated in the file. The National Centre of Prehistoric, Anthropological and Historical Research (CNRPAH) will continue to carry out research, publish findings and organize international symposiums on the element, including on its associations, how it has evolved over time, how it is worn, and the related ceremonies and rituals.
R.4: The CNRPAH established a scientific committee composed of researchers, academics, officials from the Cultural Directorates and the Chambers of Crafts, museums, workshop managers, artisans and representatives from the eastern part of the country. Cultural events, seminars and consultations aimed at gathering data, opinions and observations were organized in various locations. Teams of researchers, curators, officials from the Ministry of Culture and technicians toured the region from January to mid-March 2023 to gather consensus from the bearer communities and practitioners. Development of the nomination file’s theme and the collection of videos, photos, and consent letters were done during these extensive consultation meetings.
R.5: The element was included in the National Data Bank in 2022. The inventory is managed and updated by the National Centre of Prehistoric, Anthropological and Historic Research. A revision of the ‘National Data Bank – Algeria’ is planned every four years, but can be updated at any time upon the request of the communities. Additional information about the inventorying process was included in the State Party’s 2022 periodic report.
- Decides to inscribe The women’s ceremonial costume in the Eastern region of Algeria: knowledge and skills associated with the making and adornment of the ‘Gandoura’ and the ‘Melehfa’ on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity;
- Recalls that nominations, including their supporting documentation, are evaluated and examined solely with a view to assessing their conformity with the objective criteria set out in the Operational Directives and reiterates that inscription on the Lists of the Convention does not imply origin, exclusive ownership or intellectual property of intangible cultural heritage.