The Committee
- Takes note that Brunei Darussalam, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand have nominated Kebaya: knowledge, skills, traditions and practices (No. 02090) for inscription on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity:
Kebaya is a front-opening top often adorned with intricate embroidery and worn with fasteners such as brooches or buttons. It comes in various lengths and can be worn with a matching sarong. Kebaya is a way of dressing that has evolved with the lifestyles of Southeast Asian women. It is worn at casual as well as formal events, social gatherings and festivals. It is also worn in the performing arts, such as in dance performances, theatre and film. Contemporary designs are featured in beauty pageants and award ceremonies to reflect the wearer’s cultural identity. Making kebaya involves specific skills and knowledge related to the preparation, design, selection and cutting of fabrics and accessories, as well as different sewing and embroidery styles. Traditionally, these skills and knowledge have been transmitted informally from mothers to daughters. Over time, men have also become involved and formal training has become available through schools and workshops. Kebaya is a significant part of the cultural heritage and identity of various communities in Southeast Asia. Despite variations in how kebaya is made and worn, it is a common cultural element that transcends ethnicity, religion and borders, facilitating dialogue and uniting communities.
- Considers that, from the information included in the file, the nomination satisfies the following criteria for inscription on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity:
R.1: Kebaya is a front-opening top and a way of dressing that has evolved with the lifestyles of Southeast Asian women. The practitioners and bearers of the element include craftspeople, designers, women who wear the garment, trainees and civil society organisations. The knowledge and skills related to kebaya are transmitted informally from mothers to daughters. It is also transmitted through formal training in schools and workshops where men are involved. Over time, men have also become involved in the making and designing of the kebaya. Kebaya is a significant part of the cultural heritage and identity of various communities in Southeast Asia. It symbolises a shared heritage among submitting States as the element transcends ethnicity, religion and borders thus facilitating dialogue and uniting communities.
R.2: Inscription of kebaya will increase awareness of shared intangible cultural heritage across the submitting States. It is a unifying element that connects diverse cultures and communities and encourages mutual respect. Kebaya contributes to various aspects of sustainable development including quality education, gender equality, inclusive economic development and peace and social cohesion. It provides employment opportunities for individuals and small businesses, reduces poverty and encourages sustainable livelihoods. Through formal training, kebaya students gain craft skills and an in-depth understanding of kebaya’s socio-cultural meanings. Various communities, groups and individuals emphasized these links to sustainable development in their letters of consent and in the video attached to the nomination file.
R.3: The submitting States Parties have provided safeguarding measures to ensure the viability of the element through transmission, promotion, documentation and research. With the support and involvement of the communities, the States Parties will also contribute to the monitoring of the element to avoid its over-commercialization and to ensure that the beneficiaries of the safeguarding measures are kebaya stakeholders. The States also provide financial support to kebaya-related programmes such as exhibitions in museums and galleries, research and publications. Joint safeguarding measures between communities at national and international levels are highlighted in the file.
R.4: The submitting States Parties demonstrated the participation of the communities concerned in the nomination process. Communities, groups, civil societies and individual practitioners and bearers actively participated in all stages of the process and attended meetings to share their views. They proposed safeguarding measures and drafted the nomination file. Stakeholders provided consent for the multinational nomination using letters and videos. They also provided data about the element and submitted photos and video footage in support of the nomination.
R.5: The element is included in the national inventories of the submitting States Parties. The agencies responsible for updating and maintaining the inventories are provided. The inventories are updated regularly with extensive community involvement. The submitting States provided information about the inventory updating processes with the participation of the communities concerned.
- Decides to inscribe Kebaya: knowledge, skills, traditions and practices on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity;
- Commends the States Parties for a well-prepared file and video that can serve as a good example for multinational files, reflecting the role of living heritage in fostering peace and mutual respect between communities, groups and individuals from different States.